Ascend the Temple Walk and Discover Onomichi’s Feline Friends
One of the quintessential experiences when exploring what to do in Onomichi Japan is undoubtedly the city’s famous Temple Walk, or Tera Meguri (寺巡り). This isn’t just a simple stroll; it’s a journey through history, spirituality, and some of the most charming nooks of the city. More than two dozen temples are scattered across Onomichi’s steep hillsides, many of which are connected by narrow, winding pathways that offer unexpected vistas of the Seto Inland Sea and the islands beyond.
Senkoji Park and Ropeway Views
Your Temple Walk adventure often begins with a visit to Senkoji Park (千光寺公園), perched atop Mount Senkoji. The easiest and most scenic way to reach the summit is via the Onomichi Ropeway (尾道ロープウェイ). As you ascend, the panoramic views unfold beneath you: the jumbled rooftops of traditional houses, the busy port, and the sparkling expanse of the Seto Inland Sea dotted with islands. It’s a truly spectacular introduction to Onomichi’s unique topography. Once at the top, Senkoji Temple itself, with its vibrant vermillion pagoda and historic structures, offers a serene atmosphere and more incredible viewpoints. The park is also famous for its cherry blossoms in spring and vibrant autumn foliage, making it a beautiful destination year-round. Don’t miss the “Literary Path” (文学のこみち), a walking trail adorned with stones engraved with poetry and prose from famous Japanese writers inspired by Onomichi.
Wander Through Neko no Hosomichi (Cat Alley)
Just below Senkoji Park, hidden among the narrow lanes and stone steps, lies the whimsical Neko no Hosomichi (猫の細道), or “Cat Alley.” This charming alleyway is home to countless adorable cat-themed artworks, specifically the “Fukuishi Neko” (福石猫) – painted rocks said to bring good luck. Created by artist Shunji Sonoyama, these round, smiling cat stones peek out from every corner, lending a playful spirit to the traditional surroundings. Of course, the alley is also frequented by real, friendly felines, often napping in sunbeams or gracefully navigating the ancient steps. Exploring Cat Alley is a delightful experience, full of unexpected discoveries and perfect for cat lovers and photographers alike. The alley also features quaint cafes and small shops, making it an ideal spot to pause and soak in the atmosphere. Practical tip: Wear comfortable shoes, as the Temple Walk involves quite a bit of uphill climbing and uneven steps. Allow at least 2-3 hours to fully enjoy the park, temple, and Cat Alley at a relaxed pace.
Embark on the Shimanami Kaidō: A Cyclist’s Paradise
For many international visitors, the opportunity to cycle the Shimanami Kaidō (しまなみ海道) is the primary reason they consider what to do in Onomichi Japan. This incredible 70-kilometer cycling route connects Onomichi on Honshu island to Imabari on Shikoku island, traversing six small islands via a series of stunning bridges. It’s often hailed as one of the best cycling routes in the world, offering breathtaking sea views, charming island communities, and a unique perspective on the Seto Inland Sea.
The Route and Its Wonders
Bike Rental and Practical Tips
Starting your Shimanami Kaidō adventure from Onomichi is incredibly convenient. The Onomichi U2 complex (discussed below) offers excellent bike rental facilities, including a wide range of road bikes, cross bikes, and even electric-assist bikes. There are also numerous other rental stations along the route. One of the best features of the Shimanami Kaidō is its flexible rental system, allowing you to rent a bike at one station and return it at another, even on Shikoku. This means you don’t have to cycle the entire 70km if you prefer a shorter experience. Many cyclists choose to do a day trip, cycling to an island or two and taking a ferry back to Onomichi. For those attempting the full route, planning for an overnight stay on one of the islands is a popular option. Practical advice: Book your bike in advance, especially during peak season. Wear appropriate cycling gear, bring water, snacks, sunscreen, and a camera. Check the weather forecast, as strong winds can make cycling challenging on the bridges. Even if you’re not an avid cyclist, the Shimanami Kaidō offers an unforgettable way to experience the beauty of the Seto Inland Sea.
Savor Onomichi’s Distinctive Flavors and Culinary Delights
No exploration of what to do in Onomichi Japan would be complete without indulging in its rich culinary scene. Onomichi is renowned for its unique local dishes, particularly its signature ramen, and benefits from the abundant fresh seafood of the Seto Inland Sea. Prepare your taste buds for a delightful journey!
The Irresistible Onomichi Ramen
Foremost among Onomichi’s gastronomic treasures is Onomichi Ramen (尾道ラーメン). This regional specialty is characterized by its soy-sauce-based broth (often made from a blend of chicken and seafood stock) and distinctive backfat (seabura 背脂) that floats on top, giving it a rich, umami flavor without being overly greasy. The noodles are typically flat and slightly firm, complementing the savory broth perfectly. Each ramen shop has its own secret recipe, so trying a few different establishments is highly recommended to discover your favorite. Some of the most famous spots, often with queues out the door, include Shukaen (朱華園) and Ichibankan (壱番館), both easily accessible from the main station area. A bowl of Onomichi Ramen is more than just a meal; it’s a cultural experience, deeply ingrained in the city’s identity.
Fresh Seafood and Local Produce
Given its prime location on the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi is a haven for seafood lovers. You’ll find an abundance of fresh fish and shellfish in local restaurants, ranging from casual eateries to more upscale dining experiences. Don’t miss trying local delicacies like conger eel (anago 穴子), often served grilled over rice, or various types of white fish prepared as sashimi or tempura. The surrounding region is also famous for its citrus fruits, especially in spring and early summer. Look out for local markets and shops selling mikan (みかん – mandarins), hassaku (はっさく), and other refreshing fruits, as well as products made from them, such as juices, jams, and sweets. Explore the Onomichi Hondori Shotengai (尾道本通商店街), a covered shopping arcade, for a variety of local snacks, confectioneries, and small eateries where you can sample regional specialties. Many cafes and bakeries also offer delicious treats, perfect for a mid-day pick-me-up.
Wander the Retro Shopping Streets and Waterfront Charm
Beyond its famous hills and cycling routes, Onomichi’s flat, coastal area offers a different kind of charm, inviting visitors to explore its bustling shopping streets and serene waterfront. Discovering these areas is an essential part of understanding what to do in Onomichi Japan, offering a glimpse into local life and commerce.
Onomichi Hondori Shotengai: A Glimpse into Local Life
The Onomichi Hondori Shotengai (尾道本通商店街) is a long, covered shopping arcade that runs parallel to the coast, just a short walk from Onomichi Station. This lively street is a treasure trove of local businesses, from traditional shops selling kimonos and ceramics to modern cafes, bakeries, and souvenir stores. It’s a fantastic place to find unique gifts, sample local snacks, or simply observe the rhythm of daily life in Onomichi. You’ll find everything from fresh produce and seafood to fashion and household goods. Look for shops selling local sweets like momiji manju (もみじ饅頭), a maple-leaf-shaped cake often filled with red bean paste, or treats made with local citrus. The shotengai provides a sheltered environment, making it a great option for exploration on a rainy or particularly hot day. It’s also home to some of the city’s beloved ramen shops, offering a chance to refuel during your shopping spree.
The Stylish Onomichi U2 and Waterfront Promenade
Just west of Onomichi Station, along the scenic waterfront, stands Onomichi U2. This innovative complex, housed in a beautifully renovated old shipping warehouse, has become a symbol of Onomichi’s contemporary revitalization. It’s a multi-purpose facility designed specifically with cyclists in mind, serving as the official start/end point for the Shimanami Kaidō. Inside, you’ll find a stylish hotel (HOTEL CYCLE), a restaurant offering delicious Western and local cuisine, a cafe, a bakery, a general store selling local products and cycling gear, and, crucially, a comprehensive bike rental and repair shop. Even if you’re not cycling, Onomichi U2 is a fantastic place to visit for its modern design, waterfront views, and quality dining options. Take a stroll along the waterfront promenade outside U2, where you can enjoy refreshing sea breezes, watch the ferries come and go, and take in the picturesque views of the islands across the water. It’s an ideal spot for an evening walk or to simply relax and soak in the atmosphere of Onomichi’s vibrant port.
Discover Artistic Retreats and Hidden Gems
Onomichi’s artistic spirit is palpable, woven into its winding alleys and historic buildings. Beyond the well-trodden paths, there are numerous hidden gems and unique artistic endeavors that highlight what to do in Onomichi Japan for those seeking a deeper cultural connection.
Onomichi City Museum of Art
Located within Senkoji Park, the Onomichi City Museum of Art (尾道市立美術館) offers stunning views alongside its impressive collections. Designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando, the museum itself is a work of art, blending seamlessly with the natural landscape. It hosts a diverse range of exhibitions, from traditional Japanese art to contemporary works, often with a focus on local artists or themes related to Onomichi and the Seto Inland Sea. Even if you don’t delve into the full exhibition, the building’s architecture and the surrounding park make it a worthwhile visit. Keep an eye out for the museum’s resident cats, often found lounging near the entrance – they’ve become quite famous online!
Explore Renovated Kominka and Artisan Shops
Onomichi has a growing trend of revitalizing its old, traditional Japanese houses, known as kominka (古民家), into charming cafes, guesthouses, and artisan shops. Wandering through the backstreets, especially those leading up to the temples, you’ll stumble upon these beautifully restored buildings, each with its own story. These spaces often house local crafters selling handmade goods, unique souvenirs, or small galleries showcasing local talent. It’s a wonderful way to find authentic keepsakes and support local businesses. Many of these renovated spaces retain their original architectural charm while offering modern comforts, creating a unique blend of old and new. Look for places like the “Anago no Nedoko” (あなごのねどこ), a guesthouse and cafe housed in a remarkably long, narrow traditional building, offering a glimpse into historic living spaces.
The Onomichi Motion Picture Museum
Onomichi has a rich cinematic history, having served as the backdrop for numerous famous Japanese films, particularly those by director Nobuhiko Obayashi. The Onomichi Motion Picture Museum (尾道映画資料館) pays homage to this heritage, showcasing posters, props, and memorabilia from films shot in the city. It’s a fascinating visit for film buffs and anyone interested in seeing how Onomichi’s picturesque streets and nostalgic atmosphere have been captured on screen. The museum is a testament to how integral the city’s unique landscape is to its artistic identity, offering a different perspective on the beauty you’ve been exploring.
Immerse Yourself in Onomichi’s Serene Seasonal Beauty
Onomichi’s charm evolves with the changing seasons, offering distinct experiences throughout the year. Understanding these seasonal nuances can significantly enhance your decision on what to do in Onomichi Japan, guiding you to plan your visit for optimal enjoyment.
Spring (March – May): Cherry Blossoms and Mild Cycling
Spring is arguably one of the most beautiful times to visit Onomichi. The city’s hillsides, particularly Senkoji Park, burst into a riot of pink and white as thousands of cherry blossom trees (sakura 桜) come into full bloom, usually from late March to early April. The sight of the delicate blossoms against the backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea is truly breathtaking. It’s an ideal time for leisurely strolls along the Temple Walk, enjoying outdoor picnics (hanami 花見) under the sakura, and capturing stunning photographs. The weather is generally mild and pleasant, making it perfect for cycling the Shimanami Kaidō without the intense heat of summer. Expect larger crowds, especially on weekends during peak blossom season.
Summer (June – August): Sea Adventures and Vibrant Festivals
Summer brings warmer temperatures and a vibrant energy to Onomichi. This is the season for sea-related activities, from ferry hopping between the islands of the Seto Inland Sea to enjoying fresh seafood. While cycling the Shimanami Kaidō can be warm, early mornings or late afternoons offer more comfortable conditions. Summer also sees a number of lively festivals (matsuri 祭り). Keep an eye out for local events like the Onomichi Summer Festival, often featuring traditional dances, food stalls, and fireworks displays over the water. Exploring the narrow alleys and visiting cafes for cooling refreshments are great ways to enjoy the city during the warmer months. Don’t forget sunscreen and hydration!
Autumn (September – November): Golden Hues and Comfortable Exploration
Autumn is another fantastic time to visit Onomichi. The hillsides transform into a canvas of fiery reds, oranges, and yellows as the autumn leaves (kōyō 紅葉) change color, typically from late October to late November. The cooler, crisp weather is ideal for extended walks along the Temple Walk, offering stunning photo opportunities with the colorful foliage framing the temples and sea views. Cycling the Shimanami Kaidō is particularly enjoyable during autumn, with comfortable temperatures and clear skies. It’s also a great time to savor seasonal produce and regional specialties. The crowds tend to be thinner than during cherry blossom season, making for a more relaxed experience.
Winter (December – February): Peaceful Reflection and Cozy Comforts
Winter in Onomichi is generally mild compared to other parts of Japan, with occasional chilly days. The city takes on a quieter, more reflective atmosphere, perfect for those seeking tranquility. While cycling the Shimanami Kaidō might require warmer gear, the clear winter skies often provide exceptional visibility, offering crisp views of the islands. It’s an excellent time to explore the indoor attractions, like the museums and cozy cafes, or to warm up with a steaming bowl of Onomichi Ramen. The lack of crowds allows for a more intimate experience with the city’s historic sites and local culture. You might even catch a glimpse of mandarin oranges ripening on the trees, adding a splash of color to the winter landscape.
Planning Your Onomichi Adventure: Practical Steps
To make the most of your trip and truly experience all what to do in Onomichi Japan, a little practical planning goes a long way. Here’s how to ensure a smooth and memorable visit.
Getting to Onomichi
Onomichi is well-connected and easily accessible from major cities in Japan.
- By Shinkansen (Bullet Train): The nearest Shinkansen station is Shin-Onomichi Station (新尾道駅). However, not all trains stop here. A more convenient option is to take the Shinkansen to Fukuyama Station (福山駅), which is frequently served, and then transfer to a local JR Sanyo Line train (approx. 20-25 minutes) to Onomichi Station (尾道駅).
- By Local Train: Onomichi Station is a primary stop on the JR Sanyo Main Line, making it accessible from Hiroshima, Okayama, and other cities in the region.
- By Air: The closest airport is Hiroshima Airport (HIJ). From the airport, you can take a limousine bus to Onomichi (approx. 1 hour, 15 minutes).
Once you arrive at Onomichi Station, the city’s main attractions are largely walkable or easily accessible by bus, ferry, or the Ropeway.
Navigating Onomichi
Onomichi is a highly walkable city, especially the area around the station, the shotengai, and the lower parts of the Temple Walk.
- Walking: Many of the main sights, including the Temple Walk, are best explored on foot. Be prepared for uphill climbs and stairs.
- Ropeway: The Onomichi Ropeway (尾道ロープウェイ) is ideal for reaching Senkoji Park and the upper sections of the Temple Walk.
- Buses: Local buses serve various parts of the city and can be useful for reaching slightly further-flung attractions or when your feet need a rest.
- Ferries: Small local ferries are an essential part of life in Onomichi, connecting the main port with nearby islands like Mukaishima (向島), which is the first island on the Shimanami Kaidō. These ferries are quick, cheap, and offer lovely views.
- Rental Bicycles: As mentioned, bicycles are perfect for the Shimanami Kaidō and for exploring the flatter areas of Onomichi.
Consider purchasing an IC card like Suica or Pasmo for seamless travel on local trains and buses, though cash is also widely accepted.
Accommodation Options
Onomichi offers a diverse range of accommodation to suit various preferences and budgets:
- Onomichi U2 / HOTEL CYCLE: A unique, modern hotel designed for cyclists, located right on the waterfront with easy access to the Shimanami Kaidō.
- Traditional Ryokan & Guesthouses: Many charming guesthouses and smaller inns (ryokan 旅館) are nestled in renovated kominka (古民家) on the hillsides or near the shotengai, offering a glimpse into traditional Japanese living.
- Business Hotels: Several standard business hotels can be found near Onomichi Station, providing convenient and comfortable options.
Booking in advance, especially during peak seasons like cherry blossom viewing or autumn foliage, is highly recommended.
Whether you seek adventure on two wheels, serenity among ancient temples, or a culinary journey through local flavors, Onomichi promises an enriching and memorable experience. Prepare to be charmed by its unique blend of history, nature, and heartwarming local hospitality.

