Innoshima Island Stops Worth a Detour From the Main Route
The Shimanami Kaido is often hailed as the world’s most beautiful cycling route, a 70-kilometer ribbon of asphalt and bridges connecting Japan’s main island of Honshu to Shikoku. For many travelers, the journey is a race to the finish, a test of endurance through the salty breeze of the Seto Inland Sea. However, the true soul of this region lies not in the speed of the transit, but in the secrets hidden just off the “Blue Line”—the designated cycling path.
Innoshima, the second major island from the Onomichi side, is frequently overlooked by cyclists eager to reach the bigger islands or the finish line in Imabari. This is a mistake. Known historically as the stronghold of the Murakami Suigun—Japan’s most powerful medieval “pirate” clans—and the birthplace of the Hassaku orange, Innoshima offers a rugged, authentic glimpse into the maritime heritage of the Setouchi region. From hilltop temples guarded by hundreds of stone statues to the unique flavor of “Inno-okonomiyaki,” the island rewards those willing to venture a few kilometers off the beaten path. If you are planning a trip to Onomichi or traversing the Shimanami Kaido, these are the Innoshima stops that make every extra pedal stroke worthwhile.
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1. The Stronghold of History: Innoshima Suigun Castle
To understand Innoshima, you must understand the Murakami Suigun. While often translated as “pirates,” these maritime clans were more like private navies or “Lords of the Sea” who controlled trade routes, protected merchant vessels, and played kingmaker in Japan’s warring states period.
The Innoshima Suigun Castle is the only castle in Japan built specifically to honor these maritime warriors. While the current structure is a 20th-century reconstruction, it is perched dramatically on a hilltop, designed to evoke the spirit of the original fortifications. Inside, the museum houses a fascinating collection of artifacts, including ancient naval charts, weapons, armor, and the “Kojima Documents” detailing the clan’s strategic importance.
**Practical Tip:** The climb to the castle is steep, but the reward is a panoramic view of the surrounding channels where the Murakami once lay in wait for passing ships. If you are cycling, there is a designated bike rack at the base of the hill. Give yourself at least 45 minutes to explore the museum and the grounds.
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2. The 500 Arhats of Mt. Shirataki
If you only have time for one detour on Innoshima, make it Mt. Shirataki. Standing at 227 meters, this peak offers perhaps the most emotional and spiritual experience on the island. In 1827, a local resident named Kashiwabara Denroku and his followers carved over 700 stone statues—the Gohyaku Rakan (500 disciples of Buddha)—and scattered them across the summit.
Each statue is unique, with different facial expressions ranging from serene and meditative to joyful or stern. Seeing these weathered figures standing against the backdrop of the sparkling Seto Inland Sea is a hauntingly beautiful sight. The summit provides a 360-degree view that captures the labyrinthine waterways, the massive Innoshima Bridge, and the surrounding islands draped in mist.
**Practical Tip:** The path to the top is accessible by a narrow road, but most visitors hike up from the parking area. It is particularly magical during sunset or during the cherry blossom season. Be sure to look for the “Nio” gate statues that guard the entrance to the sacred area; they are masterclasses in Edo-period stonework.
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3. Innoshima Bridge Park and the Skywalk Experience
While every cyclist crosses the Innoshima Bridge, few realize that the area *underneath* the bridge on the island’s northern tip is a destination in its own right. Innoshima Bridge Park is a sprawling green space that offers a unique perspective on the massive suspension bridge that connects the island to Mukaishima.
The highlight here is the “Skywalk.” Unlike the other bridges on the Shimanami Kaido, where cyclists ride alongside cars, the Innoshima Bridge features a double-decker design. Cyclists and pedestrians travel on a sheltered path directly *beneath* the road deck. The sound of the wind howling through the steel girders and the sight of the emerald water churning far below creates a sense of immense scale.
The park itself features a white sand beach (Shimanami Beach), a large flower center, and even a dinosaur statue that locals have embraced as a quirky mascot. It is the perfect spot for a mid-ride picnic or a refreshing dip in the ocean during the humid summer months.
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4. Citrus Culture: Tasting the Original Hassaku Orange
Innoshima is the undisputed capital of the Hassaku orange. Legend has it that this specific variety of citrus was discovered growing wild in the gardens of the Jodo-ji Temple on Innoshima during the Edo period. Today, the island’s slopes are covered in terraced orchards, and the scent of citrus blossoms fills the air in late spring.
You cannot leave Innoshima without trying **Hassaku Daifuku**. This local delicacy consists of a whole, tart segment of Hassaku orange wrapped in sweet white bean paste and encased in a soft, chewy mochi rice cake. The contrast between the bitter-sweet juice of the fruit and the sugary mochi is a revelation.
The most famous place to get these is **Hassaku-ya**, a small shop located near the Innoshima Bridge. It is so popular that they often sell out by early afternoon. For those looking for something more substantial, the island is also famous for **Innoshima Okonomiyaki** (locally called “Inno-okonomi”). Unlike the standard Hiroshima style, which uses soba noodles, the Innoshima version typically uses thick, chewy udon noodles and a slightly different blend of spices in the sauce.
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5. The Industrial Heritage: Shipbuilding and “The Giant Ships”
While much of the Shimanami Kaido is marketed as a pristine nature escape, Innoshima offers a fascinating look at Japan’s industrial prowess. The island has been a center for shipbuilding for over a century. As you cycle along the coast, you will pass massive dry docks and towering cranes belonging to companies like Naikai Zosen.
There is a strange, majestic beauty in seeing a 200-meter-long cargo ship being serviced just meters from a quiet fishing village. These shipyards are not just relics of the past; they are the lifeblood of the local economy. The sight of these steel giants provides a stark, interesting contrast to the ancient stone statues of Mt. Shirataki and the delicate citrus groves.
**Practical Tip:** To get the best view of the shipyards, take the coastal road (Route 363) on the west side of the island. It is a flatter route than the mountain passes and takes you directly past the heavy industry zones, providing excellent photo opportunities of the massive vessels.
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6. Okuura and the Hidden Coastline
For those who want to escape the crowds entirely, the Okuura district on the eastern side of the island is a hidden gem. This area is characterized by narrow, winding streets, traditional wooden houses, and a slow pace of life that feels unchanged by the tourism of the Shimanami Kaido.
Exploring Okuura allows you to see the “everyday” Innoshima. You’ll find small shrines tucked between houses and local fishermen mending nets by the harbor. It is a great place to wander without a map, discovering small cafes or local workshops where artisans still produce traditional crafts. The coastline here is rugged and rocky, offering a different aesthetic than the sandy beaches found near the bridges.
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FAQ: Planning Your Innoshima Visit
Q: How do I get to Innoshima from Onomichi if I’m not cycling?
A: While cycling is the most popular method, you can easily reach Innoshima by bus or ferry. The “Shimanami Cycle Express” bus runs from Onomichi Station and stops at several points on the island. Alternatively, frequent ferries run from Onomichi Port to Habu Port on the south side of Innoshima, which is a scenic 30-40 minute ride.
Q: Is Innoshima hilly? How difficult is the cycling detour?
A: The main “Blue Line” through Innoshima is relatively manageable, but the best detours—like Mt. Shirataki and the Suigun Castle—require some uphill climbing. Mt. Shirataki is a significant ascent, so if you are on a standard bicycle, be prepared to walk it or use an e-bike, which is highly recommended for exploring the island’s interior.
Q: When is the best time to see the citrus harvests?
A: Hassaku oranges are typically harvested from December through February, then left to ripen further to reduce acidity. You can find the best fresh Hassaku products in shops from January through April. However, citrus-flavored sweets and juices are available year-round.
Q: Can I stay overnight on Innoshima?
A: Yes. While many people stay in Onomichi, Innoshima has several charming guesthouses and “Minshuku” (traditional B&Bs). Staying overnight allows you to catch the sunset from Mt. Shirataki and explore the island after the day-tripping cyclists have moved on.
Q: Are there English signs for these detours?
A: The Shimanami Kaido is very well-marked with English signage. While some of the deeper detours into residential Okuura may have less English, the major sites like the Castle and Mt. Shirataki are easy to find using Google Maps or the physical maps provided at the Onomichi rental bike terminals.
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Trip Planning Tips for Innoshima
To make the most of your time on this “Pirate Island,” keep these planning tips in mind:
1. **Rent an E-Bike:** If you plan on visiting Mt. Shirataki and the Suigun Castle in one day, an electric-assist bicycle is a game-changer. It turns a grueling climb into a pleasant breeze, allowing you to enjoy the views without exhaustion.
2. **Check the Ferry Schedule:** If you find yourself too tired to cycle back to Onomichi, the ferry from Habu Port is a lifesaver. It accepts bicycles for a small additional fee and offers a relaxing way to see the islands from the water.
3. **The “Stamp Rally”:** Keep an eye out for “Cycle Oases”—designated rest stops (often at convenience stores or local shops) where you can pump your tires, use the restroom, and sometimes collect stamps for a commemorative Shimanami Kaido book.
4. **Carry Cash:** While larger shops and the castle museum may take cards, many of the small citrus stands and local okonomiyaki shops are cash-only. Small denominations are helpful for the honesty boxes found at roadside fruit stalls.
5. **Start Early:** Innoshima is best enjoyed in the soft morning light, especially at Mt. Shirataki. Starting your journey from Onomichi by 8:00 AM will give you plenty of time to explore Innoshima’s detours before the midday sun or the afternoon rush toward the next island.
Innoshima is more than just a waypoint on a map; it is a place where Japan’s maritime history, industrial strength, and agricultural bounty collide. By taking the time to turn off the main road, you’ll discover the layers of culture that make the Seto Inland Sea one of the most enchanting regions in the world.
