Ikuchijima Island Cycling Guide

Ikuchijima Island Cycling Guide: A Journey Through Art, Citrus, and Serenity on the Shimanami Kaido

Ikuchijima, part of Setoda (瀬戸田), is often affectionately called the “Island of Art” and the “Island of Lemons.” Its gentle terrain, well-marked cycling paths, and abundance of attractions make it perfect for cyclists of all levels, from families looking for a leisurely spin to those seeking a relaxed detour from the main Shimanami route. Prepare to pedal through picturesque lemon groves, marvel at unique art installations scattered across the landscape, explore an astonishing temple, and indulge in fresh seafood and citrus-infused treats. Let’s embark on this two-wheeled adventure!

Discovering Ikuchijima: A Shimanami Gem for Cyclists

Ikuchijima is the fifth island you encounter when cycling the Shimanami Kaido from Onomichi (尾道) and the second when starting from Imabari (今治). It’s connected to Ōmishima (大三島) by the Tatara Ohashi (多々羅大橋) — a stunning cable-stayed bridge renowned for its beautiful harp-like shape and its unique “singing” acoustics — and to Innoshima (因島) by the Ikuchi Bridge (生口橋). The island itself is relatively flat, especially along its coastal loop, making the Ikuchijima island cycling guide an ideal choice for a relaxing day trip or an overnight stay. The entire loop around Ikuchijima is approximately 30 kilometers (about 18.6 miles), easily manageable for most cyclists within 3-5 hours, including stops for sightseeing and refreshments.

What sets Ikuchijima apart is its harmonious blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. The island has fostered a strong artistic identity, spurred by the legacy of renowned nihonga (日本画 – Japanese-style painting) artist Hirayama Ikuo (平山郁夫), who was born here. This artistic spirit is evident in the public art installations dotting the cycling course and the impressive Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art. Coupled with its status as Japan’s largest producer of lemons and other citrus fruits, Ikuchijima offers a sensory feast unlike any other on the Shimanami Kaido.

Getting to Ikuchijima: Your Gateway to Cycling Paradise

Starting from Onomichi (Hiroshima Side)

• By Bicycle: This is the most popular way. From Onomichi, you’ll take a short ferry ride (or a “Blue Line” boat from Onomichi Port to Setoda Port if you have your bike) to Mukaishima (向島), then cycle across Innoshima (因島) to reach Ikuchijima via the Ikuchi Bridge. The total distance from Onomichi to the center of Ikuchijima (Setoda Port area) is roughly 25-30 km, primarily flat or gentle slopes after the initial bridges.
• By Ferry: For those who prefer to minimize cycling on the way, regular ferries connect Onomichi Port directly to Setoda Port (瀬戸田港) on Ikuchijima. This is an excellent option if you want to focus solely on the Ikuchijima loop and avoid the earlier bridges.
• By Bus: Limited bus services operate along the Shimanami Kaido. You can take a bus from Onomichi to Setoda, then rent a bike upon arrival.

Starting from Imabari (Ehime Side)

• By Bicycle: From Imabari, you’ll cycle across Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi (来島海峡大橋), Ōshima (大島), Hakatajima (伯方島), and Ōmishima (大三島) before crossing the iconic Tatara Ohashi (多々羅大橋) to reach Ikuchijima. This route covers approximately 40-50 km before you even begin the Ikuchijima loop, making it a longer day.
• By Ferry/Bus: While less direct, you could combine bus and ferry travel to reach Ikuchijima from Imabari, but cycling is highly recommended to experience the bridges properly.

Bicycle Rental: No matter your starting point, it’s easy to rent bicycles. The official Shimanami Kaido Bicycle Rental Terminals (しまなみ海道レンタサイクルターミナル) are strategically located, including one right at Setoda Port on Ikuchijima. You can pick up a bike at one terminal and drop it off at another, offering incredible flexibility for your Ikuchijima island cycling guide adventure. We recommend reserving in advance, especially during peak seasons.

The Ikuchijima Cycling Loop: Art, Citrus & Coastal Charm

The roughly 30-kilometer coastal loop around Ikuchijima is arguably one of the most rewarding and accessible sections of the entire Shimanami Kaido. It’s a journey filled with diverse landscapes and cultural treasures. Follow the prominent blue cycling lines, but also be prepared to explore side streets to uncover the island’s true character.

1. Kōsan-ji Temple & Hill of Hope (耕三寺と未来心の丘)

Often considered the highlight of any Ikuchijima island cycling guide, Kōsan-ji Temple (耕三寺) is a truly astonishing sight. Built by a wealthy Osaka industrialist, Kōsan-ji Kōsanji, in memory of his mother, this temple is a vibrant, eclectic architectural marvel. It features meticulous replicas of famous Japanese temples and shrines, including sections inspired by Nikkō Tōshō-gū (日光東照宮) and Byōdō-in (平等院). The sheer scale and intricate detail are breathtaking.

Adjacent to Kōsan-ji is the “Hill of Hope” (未来心の丘 – Mirai-shin-no-oka), an expansive, dazzling white marble garden designed by sculptor Ittetsu Kuwayama. Walking among the gleaming marble sculptures, with the blue sky and Seto Inland Sea as a backdrop, feels like stepping into a surreal dreamscape. There’s also a charming café here offering refreshing drinks and snacks with incredible views. Allocate at least 1-2 hours to fully explore Kōsan-ji and the Hill of Hope.

2. Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art (平山郁夫美術館)

Just a short pedal from Kōsan-ji Temple, the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art (平山郁夫美術館) is dedicated to one of Japan’s most celebrated nihonga artists, a native of Ikuchijima. Hirayama Ikuo (1930-2009) was renowned for his evocative paintings of the Silk Road and his powerful anti-war themes. The museum showcases his early works, sketches, and iconic masterpieces, providing deep insight into his creative journey and the landscapes that inspired him. It’s a peaceful and contemplative stop, offering a wonderful contrast to the grandeur of Kōsan-ji. Don’t miss the opportunity to purchase unique souvenirs featuring his art.

3. Shio-machi Shopping Street & Local Delights (潮町商店街と地元グルメ)

Take a break from the saddle and wander through Shio-machi Shopping Street (潮町商店街), a charming, old-fashioned arcade near Setoda Port. This nostalgic street offers a glimpse into local life with its small shops, eateries, and a relaxed atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to try some local specialties. Look for:

• Lemon-infused treats: Cakes, cookies, and even savory dishes featuring Ikuchijima’s famous lemons.
• Dolce Setoda (ドルチェ瀬戸田): A renowned gelato shop famous for its fresh fruit flavors, especially those made with local citrus like lemon, mikan (みかん – mandarin orange), and hassaku (八朔 – a type of Japanese citrus). A scoop (or two!) here is practically a rite of passage for cyclists.
• Fresh Seafood: Ikuchijima, being an island, boasts excellent seafood. Keep an eye out for small restaurants serving tempura, sashimi, or grilled fish caught fresh from the Seto Inland Sea.

4. Lemon Valley & Setoda’s Citrus Heart (レモン谷と瀬戸田の柑橘)

As you continue your ride, particularly on the western and southern sides of the island, you’ll cycle through rolling hills blanketed with citrus groves. This is Setoda’s “Lemon Valley,” where the air is often fragrant with the scent of lemon blossoms or ripening fruit. Ikuchijima is the top producer of lemons in Japan, and you’ll see countless trees laden with bright yellow fruit. Many farm stands (often unmanned, relying on an honor system for payment) sell freshly picked lemons, mikan, and other seasonal citrus directly to passersby. It’s a wonderful opportunity to taste the freshness of the island and support local farmers. Don’t forget to grab a bottle of fresh lemon juice!

5. Sunset Beach & Coastal Views (サンセットビーチと絶景)

As the name suggests, Sunset Beach (サンセットビーチ) on Ikuchijima is an ideal spot to catch the sun dipping below the horizon, painting the sky with vibrant hues over the tranquil Seto Inland Sea. Even outside of sunset hours, it’s a beautiful, sandy beach perfect for a rest stop, a quick dip on a hot day, or simply enjoying the ocean breeze. The beach also has facilities like showers and restrooms, making it a convenient break point. Further along the coast, you’ll encounter numerous viewpoints offering panoramic vistas of the surrounding islands and the sparkling waters, reminding you why the Shimanami Kaido is celebrated worldwide.

6. The Art Project: Island-Wide Sculptures

Throughout your Ikuchijima island cycling guide journey, keep an eye out for the unique outdoor sculptures that form part of the “Setoda Art Project.” These contemporary artworks are subtly integrated into the landscape, appearing in unexpected places along the coast, in fields, or even within small villages. Discovering each piece adds an element of surprise and delight to your ride, reinforcing Ikuchijima’s identity as an “Island of Art.”

Bicycle Rental & Support on Ikuchijima

Your Ikuchijima island cycling guide wouldn’t be complete without practical advice on getting your wheels. The Shimanami Kaido is exceptionally well-equipped for cyclists, and Ikuchijima is no exception:

• Shimanami Kaido Bicycle Rental Terminal (Setoda): Located right at Setoda Port, this is the most convenient place to rent a bike directly on Ikuchijima. They offer a range of bicycles, including standard city bikes, road bikes, and even electric-assist bikes (電動アシスト自転車 – dentō ashisuto jitensha), which are highly recommended for less experienced riders or those wanting an easier ride on the slight inclines of the bridges.
• Rental Process: You’ll fill out a form, pay a rental fee (usually around ¥1,000-¥1,500 per day for standard bikes, more for road bikes or e-bikes), and a deposit (which is returned if you drop the bike at the original terminal or forfeited if you drop it at a different one, acting as a one-way fee).
• Bike Maintenance & Repair: Look for signs indicating “Bicycle Support Stations” (サイクルサポートステーション – saikuru sapōto sutēshon) or local bike shops. These spots can help with minor repairs, air pumps, and basic tools. Many guesthouses and cafes are also cyclist-friendly and may offer assistance.
• Helmet Rental: Helmets are usually included with your rental, and wearing one is highly recommended for safety.

Fueling Your Adventure: Dining & Refreshments on Ikuchijima

Cycling builds an appetite, and Ikuchijima offers delightful culinary experiences. Beyond Dolce Setoda and the Shio-machi Shopping Street, keep an eye out for:

• Local Cafes: Quaint cafes dot the island, often serving homemade pastries, coffee, and light lunches. Many are housed in beautifully restored traditional Japanese buildings (古民家 – kominka).
• Seafood Restaurants: Look for establishments near the ports or along the coast serving fresh catches of the day. Expect dishes like tai-meshi (鯛めし – sea bream rice), shirasu-don (しらす丼 – sardine rice bowl), and various grilled fish.
• Farm Stands: As mentioned, don’t miss the opportunity to buy fresh fruit directly from farm stands. These are perfect for on-the-go snacks.
• Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き): While more famous in Hiroshima City, many local eateries throughout the prefecture, including on Ikuchijima, will serve their own regional variations of this savory pancake.

Remember that many smaller establishments, especially outside of peak tourist areas, may have limited operating hours or close early, so plan your meal stops accordingly.

Planning Your Ikuchijima Cycling Trip: Essential Tips

To ensure your Ikuchijima island cycling guide adventure is as smooth and enjoyable as possible, here are some crucial tips:

• Best Time to Visit: Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) offer the most pleasant cycling weather. Temperatures are mild, and the scenery is beautiful. Summer can be hot and humid, but manageable if you start early. Winter is colder but sees fewer crowds.
• What to Wear & Bring:
  • Light, breathable athletic clothing suitable for cycling.
  • Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat (wear under your helmet).
  • Water bottle (stay hydrated!).
  • Small backpack for essentials (snacks, camera, phone, wallet).
  • Japanese Yen cash, as some smaller shops or farm stands may not accept cards.
  • Your camera! The photo opportunities are endless.
• Follow Blue Lines: The Shimanami Kaido, including Ikuchijima, is excellently marked with blue lines painted on the road, indicating the cycling route. Follow them to stay on track.
• Bridge Tolls: If you’re cycling the full Shimanami Kaido, expect small tolls for each bridge. However, a special campaign often offers free passage for bicycles, so check current information. For the Ikuchijima loop itself, you won’t encounter tolls as you’re staying on the island.
• Cultural Etiquette: Japan is a country of respect. When visiting temples or interacting with locals, be mindful of noise levels, dispose of trash properly, and remember to say “Arigatou gozaimasu” (ありがとうございます – Thank you very much).
• Stay Hydrated and Rest: Even though Ikuchijima’s loop is relatively flat, it’s essential to stay hydrated, especially on warmer days. Take breaks at cafes, convenience stores, or scenic viewpoints.
• Allow for Flexibility: While this Ikuchijima island cycling guide provides a framework, allow yourself the freedom to spontaneously explore. A charming alleyway, an unexpected cafe, or a hidden viewpoint might be just around the corner.

Beyond the Bike: Where to Stay on Ikuchijima

While many cyclists enjoy Ikuchijima as a day trip, staying overnight allows for a more immersive experience, letting you enjoy a leisurely dinner, witness a stunning sunset, and experience the quiet charm of the island after the day-trippers depart. Here are a few options:

• Ryokan & Minshuku (旅館・民宿): Traditional Japanese inns offer a unique cultural experience, often including delicious multi-course Japanese dinners (会席料理 – kaiseki ryōri) and breakfasts. Many are family-run and provide a warm, personal touch. Look for options around Setoda Port or along the coastline.
• Guesthouses & Hostels: Budget-friendly options cater specifically to cyclists, often providing bike storage, repair tools, and communal areas for travelers to share stories. These are excellent for solo travelers or those on a tighter budget.
• Hotels: While fewer in number compared to larger cities, some modern hotels or resorts offer comfortable Western-style accommodations, sometimes with amenities like onsen (温泉 – hot springs) or ocean views.

Booking in advance, especially during peak seasons, is always recommended to secure your preferred accommodation.